The Ledbury, London

The Ledbury is one of those restaurants that we have had on 'the list' for years. We even booked in about a year ago, only to change our minds and go elsewhere. I had no doubt that anything hailing from Brett Graham's kitchen would be world class, it was just lacking something. I'm looking for that sparkle: the thrill of the ride, the promise of some unusual creation, or tales of glee from another diner. The Ledbury sat in the shadows. Dormant.

Then we remembered. Every year we avidly watch the World's 50 Best Restaurants. The Ledbury had always been there, but it served as a reminder that one of the world's top 15 was on our doorstep.

We had a late reservation on a warm, muggy evening. We thought it was a great idea at the time of booking, but truth be told we were already flagging after enjoying a rather large lunch at Little Social earlier that afternoon. We strolled down the rose bedded avenues of Notting Hill, wondering who lives in a house like this...?

The decor is simple with muted tones, white linen, glittering glasswork and natural table decorations. The restaurant is bright (which is great for pictures), and tables are well spaced. We were given both the á la carte and tasting menus, but we were always going for the tasting option, despite it being half past nine in the evening. Madness.

We were greeted by Sam - lovely Sam from up North. He was an absolute joy all evening: passionate about the food he brought to us, knowledgeable about the ingredients and enthusiastic about his favourite places to eat. He brought over some canapes, and left us to gather our thoughts on the menu.

Canape - squid ink and crisp with smoked turbot roe and apple jelly: Smooth and zesty and all kinds of wonderful. We were hoping this was a sign of things to come...

Bread: Jeepers this was good. First comes the cloth wrapped granary style loaf, which is still warm from the oven. Not long after there were smaller rolls of caramelised onion, and tomato and olive, both equally warm and delicious.

Amuse bouche - chilled courgette soup with lobster caviar: This was fresh and sweet, and I'm not ashamed to say I mopped up the very last scraps with some bread. You can take the girl out of Horwich...

Ceviche of hand dived scallops with Tokyo turnips, seaweed oil and frozen horseradish: Here's a little story. I hate scallops. Personal preference, but I never mention it when they are on a tasting menu, I just make my husband eat them on the sly... But when Sam asked whether I enjoyed it, I crumbled! I told him the horrid truth. From this point forth, all the overly fishy items on the menu were replaced with stunning alternatives. Brilliant service! Oh and the scallops? My husband reported they were perfect, and had no qualms about scoffing a second portion.

Flame grilled mackerel with pickled cucumber, Celtic mustard and shiso: This was the first course I had replaced, but my husband went ahead with the restaurant's signature mackerel dish. I must admit, it looked quite tasty! Highlights included the crisp skin and the tart picked cucumber.

Salad of green beans with new season's almonds, nectarine and grated foie gras: This was my replacement. A wave of horror came over me. I'm not a fan of foie and I find green beans an odd texture. By jove, I loved it.  The foie gras was actually frozen, and subtly melted away as it was eaten, and the beans were stunning. Converted.

Hampshire buffalo milk curd with Saint Nectaire, truffle toast, and a broth of grilled onions: The combination of broth and toast were a match made in heaven. This dish may look refined, but had all the bold flavours and textures of home made comfort food.

Wild salmon with peas and asparagus: I didn't have this dish as salmon is one of my mortal enemies. However, my husband reported that it was excellent. He particularly enjoyed the complimenting asparagus.

Cream Jersey Royals, morels cooked in Earl Grey tea and wild herbs: This was my replacement, which I chose from the á la carte menu. I love Jersey Royals: the texture, the buttery taste and the colour. Could not resist. Considering this is glorified mashed potato, it was an absolute stormer.

Jowel of pork with apricots, girolles and almonds: This was the point I can safely say that food fatigue started to set in. Small portions with bold flavours. Psychologically this knocked me for six. A slap across the chops with, well, a jowel.

Fillet of Galloway beef with celeriac baked in juniper, wild garlic and bone marrow: This was outstanding. Pity by this point I was actually nodding off. I was destroyed by this wonderful array of food. I knew dessert was just around the corner (which naturally perks me up), but this delicious little dish was the straw that broke the camel's back. 

Pre-dessert - lemon meringue: Christ on a bike. This is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Soft meringue, sharp lemon and colder than cold granita. Ten minutes earlier I could have happily never eaten ever again. After eating this, I could have snaffled another three.

Apricot mille feuille: This was a little extra that came with our main dessert. I'm sure they were trying to kill us. Rustic but tasty, this had the perfect balance between rich pastry, creaminess and fruit.

Brown sugar tart with poached grapes and stem ginger ice cream: This was the second brown sugar tart we had eaten that day, the first being at Little Social. This was much richer than the first, and had almost a concentrated quality to it. It was an absolute dream, as were both of the accompaniments. I could eat that ice cream every day (if forced/given a spoon).

Petit fours - truffles and jelly: There was no way we were in any shape to eat petit fours. It was around midnight, and I'd been flagging since the pork dish. Sam didn't even ask. He just kindly packaged them into little boxes so we could taken them home. Very kind.

The Ledbury exceeded my expectations. I'd got to the stage where classical french was starting to bore me a little: same scenes, different stage. The Good Food Guide describes the food as modern french, but it's more than that. It has personality, as do the staff who serve you. It's not the most exciting meal I've ever had, but it was very enjoyable indeed.

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Balthazar, London

When the famous New York brasserie Balthazar graced London with its presence, I was very giddy indeed. As a kipper in fact. We had intended going to the Boulangerie the last time we were in London, but didn't quite get round to it. I'll be honest with you, it was mainly down to over indulgence and general gluttony. So this time I made a booking in the restaurant next door - it was a date.

Although Balthazar hails from New York, their style is very much French inspired brasserie food, with emphasis on fresh produce, home baked cakes and bread, and decadent displays of fruit and shellfish. The Boulangerie is just next door, and serves the same home baked goodies for you to take away.   

We decided to go for breakfast; a simple menu which reminded me of that beautiful meal we had at Bouchon in Las Vegas. Since Vegas is a bit of a trek from Horwich, I was hoping that Balthazar may scratch an overdue itch.

The large dining room is bathed in a gold light which reflects of the large mirrors on the walls. This also explains why some of my photos have a bit of a tan... 

We started with coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice. Very refreshing. We had done the tasting menu at the Ledbury the night before, so were in dire need of a pick me up.

We both ordered tactically. We had a big day of food related fun ahead of us, and didn't want to burn out. 

Balthazar Bacon Roll with Canadian maple syrup butter: This beautiful bacon was served on a fresh, home made baguette. 

Pancakes with cinnamon apples: These were spectacular. The pancakes were soft and actually quite light, and came with a jug of maple syrup and sweet cinnamon soaked apples. They don't look very pretty, but tasted amazingly good.

This has to be one of my favourite breakfasts in London. It's not quite as good as Thomas Keller's Bouchon, but it's the closest thing I have found so far. Elegant and understated, these dishes were all about flavour. Next time I'm heading to the Boulangerie for cake...  

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The French by Simon Rogan at the Midland Hotel, Manchester

We first became aware of Simon Rogan's cooking about five years ago, not long after we started our quest for Michelin starred food. We were four folk in our mid-twenties who regularly brought the average age of the dining room down by at least twenty years. The Lake District bug had started with Sharrow Bay in December 2007, and quickly progressed to L'Enclume a few months later.

We were wowed by dishes like razor role reversal  and also forged what would be a long term friendship with an elderly ginger cat named Ben. We fell in love with L'Enclume and all agreed that Simon was clearly some sort of culinary witch. We have returned several times, and lost count how many people we have recommended it to since.

Then came the rumour. Was Simon Rogan really taking over The French at the Midland Hotel in Manchester? When it was announced, I probably had more questions than answers. Would it be a carbon copy of our beloved L'Enclume? Would it be a watered down version? Would it work when Simon was no longer there? We had to go. We waited until my birthday weekend (like we needed an excuse!) to give it a whirl. We all tried not to read too may reviews before going, but I have to admit I may have stolen a glance at a few pictures...

On arrival we saw some familiar faces from L'Enclume, which is always nice. It's even nicer when they recognise you too! We had a lovely chat with Karmila and Rebecca who have both been at L'Enclume for some time. Rebecca told us that the staff at The French are now a mix of originals, some from Cartmel and new recruits.

There was a choice between a six or ten course tasting menu, which obviously left us with only one. It's the only way to give a fair review... After glancing at the menu, it was clear that there are some very definite nods towards home, albeit slightly different. As always, there are 'extra' courses thrown in, which always end up being some of my favourites. Perhaps it's the element of surprise!

We started with a nice glass of pink bubbles, which was quickly followed by several appetisers. There were seaweed 'sticks' served in caramelised onion and fennel powder, black pudding mousse, mussels, dock leaf pudding with mayonaise and salt and vinegar crumbs, and a parsnip crisp with smoked eel and bacon with onion seeds. These were phenomenal! That parsnip crisp was an absolute taste sensation. This is being promptly added to my 'what could you just eat?' list.

The tasting menu started with razor clams, egg yolk, celeriac and sea herbs. This is a nod to the razor role reversal we first had in 2008 at L'Enclume. I had seen on the previous night that Simon had created a similar dish using the original 'shell' idea. Similar, but not the same. Saying that, I'd love to have that dish again... Just once.

Next was the artichoke broth with truffle dumplings, bacon, radish and hazelnut. This was a meaty liquid served with a range of textures as well as flavours. The nuts were sweet and crunchy whilst the dumplings were delicately flavoured and soft. I hate it when the taste of truffle is overpowering. This was in perfect balance.

The next course was one of my favourites of the evening; ox in coal oil, pumpkin seed, kohlrabi and sunflower seeds. Similar to a venison dish we ate at L'Enclume, this is possibly a masterpiece.

By now we were ready for carbs. You can always judge a nice restaurant by its bread. If it's rubbish, it shows little attention to detail. This was wonderful. We were given a selection of wholemeal with ale, chestnut and french baguette. They came served with whipped butter with a sprinkling of sea salt. We snaffled the lot.

The fresh crab with caramelised cabbage, horseradish, chicken skin with crow garlic was a huge hit around the table. This was promptly followed by an 'early spring offering' of vegetables, herbs and flowers with lovage salt. This was a little bit special. It reminded me of a scaled down satio tempestas (Frantzen/Lindeberg), which we ate exactly a year ago.

The fish course was a sole fillet with onions, smoked scallops, parsley and leeks. I'm not the hugest fan of fish, but this was sweet and subtle.

The meat courses started with hogget, sweetbreads, wild garlic and sheep's milk. We were dying by this point, but I still managed the vast majority! The hogget was just fantastic. I cursed myself for feeling quite so full! By the point that the veal came I was suffering from a minor dose of actual death. I then gave a second curse, this time to the veal for being so damn good.

It's funny how I always manage to get my second wind when dessert arrives... I think there is clearly a scientific reason for this. When I have eaten so much savoury food, I need that burst of sugar to perk me back up. Plus, like a cow I am sure I have more than one stomach. It's the only way I can explain how I am able to eat a huge pudding after a massive meal. I have been known to insist that I am never eating ever again, only to scoff a dessert moments later. Either that, or I'm just a greedy pig.

Anyway, onto the desserts. The first was a perfectly pink sweet cheese with rhubarb, toasted oats and mulled cider. I loved this! It almost made me forget that it was about minus ten outside. Think Spring... The final couse was one of my favourite desserts of 2013. I know we are only in March, but believe me, I've already consumed quite a few. This was pear, meadowsweet and rye, buttermilk and linseeds. I was also given a rich chocolate crisp because it was my birthday!

Just when we thought it was all over, a bottle of dark liquid appeared. Sarsaparilla! This came with a soft wafer filled with ice cream. It was all kinds of special! We all loved this. Sugar levels sorted, we felt much better!

I hadn't really known what to expect from The French, but it blew my socks off. I thought it might have been a bit 'fine dining for the masses' and worried that some of that special flair of Simon's may have been lost in favour of something safe. No no no. Nor is it a carbon copy of L'Enclume. They are sisters, not twins. We all agreed that it would be nice to see some signature Manchester dishes on the menu in the coming months.

L'Enclume is situated in the middle of some of the most beautiful countryside in the world, and with that comes food that can be foraged or locally produced; notably dishes like the LA11 venison. We wondered where the ingredients will come from in the heart of a city? Saying that, Vicki tells me that she has heard rumours of a roof top herb garden!

I hope that The French is as strong when Simon goes back to Cartmel, and continues to evolve without his guidance in the kitchen. We'll have to make a return visit to judge that one. In the mean time, you should really go, because they are producing some stunning food. Simon may be there at the moment, but his team created a fantastic meal last night.

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Le Gavroche, London

We have been fine dining for a long time now, so how is it that we never quite got round to Le Gavroche? Every time we go to London, we have a huge list of places we want to try. I made the executive decision that our anniversary trip this year would see us visit Michel Roux Jr's two star restaurant. 

Le Gavroche was the young street urchin or ragamuffin from Les Miserables. A painting of the young man hangs in the restaurant bar, the crockery bears his logo and most of the cutlery has the little chap on the handles.

Deep in the heart of Mayfair is a shiny door with a 1970s style illuminated sign with the 'Le Gavroche' script over the top. You are taken through the plush bar down some stairs to the restaurant. First impressions of Le Gavroche? I cannot believe we have waited until now to come here! The dining room is dimly lit with deep reds and golds, the tables are well spaced and large flower arrangements adorn the alcoves. Tables are decorated with small lamps, personalised chargers and silver ornaments made form cutlery. Comfort is key. Le Gavroche feels homely and warm. 

We decided to have the Menu Exceptionnel to get the full Le Gavroche experience. 

Before the menu began, we were brought a selection of breads to choose from, along with some canapes. Fresh and delicate, these were the perfect start to the meal. They accidentally brought us two servings of these. Oops... happy accident!  

Starting with their signature dish; the Soufflé Suissesse, this is an opulent but well proportioned menu. The soufflé is one of the richest things I have ever eaten in my entire life. A cheese soufflé cooked in double cream. I am convinced this must have been about 6000 calories! Absolutely divine. I'm sure this is tactical. If you have ever had a large tasting menu, you know that by around half way through you are praying for it to end, even though the food is amazing. Dishes might be small, but tend to be incredibly full bodied. This leads to both physical and mental going-to-burst-ness. By starting with the richest dish in the world, everything else seems much lighter in comparison!

Next came the foie gras, served layered with confit carrot layers and ice wine vinegar jelly with pomegranate seeds. Yes, foie gras is very heavy, but this was served with sweet juices and fruit, which lightened the dish. I am not a fan of the fluffy livery stuff so I made my husband eat it! On the up side he loves it, so we were both happy!

Next was the standout dish of the night for me. Wait for it... it was fish! You know that fish is generally one of my mortal enemies (ME number three in fact), but this was one of the best things I have ever eaten. Stone bass with Arabian spices and red rice. It reminded me a little of the beautifully spiced monkfish we had at Purnell's in Birmingham, but a million times better! This really whipped Glynn's backside.

Sat reeling from the wonderful flavours in the stone bass, I saw my husband scowling. I then realised he was looking into the large mirror behind me. I got him with a 'what's up with you?' look only to realise what he had seen; the reflection of Michel Roux Jr in the mirror! He was less then three meters away from us. He moved to the table next to us and summonsed the waiting staff to bring more bread to the chaps who had just finished their venison dish. He insisted bread was needed to mop up the remainder of the sauce! When he came to our table for a chat, I was sure my face would explode! Luckily the dining room is dimly lit so hopefully he thought I was just fond of blusher. He stayed and had a chat about the bass, before moving on round the room. What a nice fellow! Made my bloody day.

The langoustines and snails that came next were served in a buttery Hollandaise sauce with a grilled cheese top. Perfection! The black pudding, crumbed egg and crackling sounds heavy, but actually wasn't at all. It was served with a zingy tomato chutney which made the dish seem much lighter. By the time the venison turned up, I actually felt okay! By this point I am normally cursing my greed, the size of the menu and complaining that part of my dress is digging in. We were both feeling remarkably perky! The venison dish came with sprouts, cranberries and a thick red wine sauce. A real taste of winter.

Earlier in the night we had seen (smelled) the amazing cheese trolly. My friend Heather would have soiled herself at the mere sight of this beauty. It smelled vile, which is usually the sign of an outstanding cheese selection. I remember years ago getting my first whiff of the L'Enclume cheese trolley. I was sure that something was deceased under that cloth. However, I am now conditioned to know that that pong means a decent selection. We wanted everything from the strong and firm to the gloppy and stingy. Nothing compares to a cheese that stings the inside of your jaw bone...

Heather, the first photo is for you. Look at the size of that bloody trolley! The chap next to us told us that the old cart had a dodgy wheel and needed a three point turn to get round the dining room! This one wasn't much better. The poor girl pushing it around looked in agony! She has a brilliant French accent which reminded me a little of our friend Lumière from L'Enclume (aside: this was not his real name - he just reminded Vicki and I of the talking candle stick from Beauty and the Beast).

We selected a crop of cheeses covering blue, goat, hard and soft. They were served with fruit bread thins, tomato chutney and quince jelly. I refuse to eat cheese from now on without said sharp jelly. I am normally verging on decay by now. In fact, it's sometimes touch and go as to whether I can manage cheese at all. We were both still ok...

Then came the babas. Yes cake fans, they served me a mini bundt! They even popped a little candle in for our anniversary. Drizzled in Calvados, it was an interesting twist on the standard rum version. Now we were full. Still not dying, but happily full. That's when the line of petit fours occurred. Carrot cake, macarons, caramel fruits and sesame tuiles. Tea and coffee is served with a wooden box of nougat and chocolates. Beautiful, but killers. The devil is in a sliding wooden box.

We had a fantastic time at Le Gavroche. We agreed that this was down to three factors; the food (obviously), comfort and atmosphere. Not only is the dining room a comfortable place to sit for several hours, but the friendly staff and decent gaps between courses meant that we were never over-faced. Everyone here is having a good time; smiles and laughter fill the room and there is no stuffiness whatsoever. We had a lovely chat to the chaps next to us who recommended a few places for our next London visit too. It's that sort of place. Fellow diners get excited when they see you are about to eat something they really enjoyed. A great experience!

I found this short video created by Michel Roux Jr on the Le Gavroche website which explains the restaurant's ethos. Definitely worth a watch!

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